An Ode to the humble tee
Saturday mornings in my pre-teen era always started with cornflakes and Recess; always keen to see what Spinelli was plotting and how Mikey was going to save her from herself, what brilliant scientific scheme Gretchen could blow our minds with! However, T.J. mostly stole the show for me, cheerful, convincing, chatty and always dressed in oversized, baggy T-Shirt and baseball cap. This was early 2000’s when Tees were mostly baggy and boxy and Saturdays were mostly breezy and free.
Whilst my parents regularly donned t-shirts, I’m pretty sure I can honestly say that none of my grandparents EVER owned a t-shirt. The humble Tee began life in the early 20th century but was mostly worn underneath uniforms by the soldiers in World War 1. During this era, T-shirts featured the iconic single-stitch seam—a hallmark of durability and quality. Single stitching refers to a single row of stitches used to hem the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt, which contrasts with the double stitching more commonly seen today. This construction method was economical and provided enough durability for an item that was then considered disposable.
The T-shirt was given many names, like a “crew-neck shirt,” a “bachelor undershirt,” or a “cotton pullover.” F. Scott Fitzgerald is credited with one of the first references to a T-shirt in 1920 in his book “This Side of Paradise, and thereafter the name caught on. It made sense- the shape of the shirt looked like a “T.” The novel shone a light on the leisure activities of the Jazz Age generation, who were adolescents during World War 1. The T-Shirt was officially christened and embraced by this generation! The advent of screen-printing in the free wheelin’ 60’s saw the tee as a medium for self-expression. Activists against the Vietnam War, hippies against societal norms, musicians seeking freedom of expression all fell in love with the tee.
The 1970s and 1980s were transformative decades for the T-shirt. With the rise of the counterculture movement, T-shirts became a canvas for political statements, band logos, and artistic designs. Madonna and big hair ruled the ‘80’s. Teenage girls donned Patrick Swayze Dirty Dancing tees. Cropped Tees were all the rage as Madonna put her bellybutton on show J. As T-shirts gained popularity across various subcultures, the demand for a broader range of sizes increased. Manufacturers began to produce T-shirts in a wider variety of fits, including slim, athletic, and oversized options. This era also marked the decline of the single-stitch T-shirt, as double stitching became the industry standard. Double stitching was more durable and allowed manufacturers to produce garments at a lower cost, making T-shirts more affordable for the masses.
Despite this shift, single-stitch T-shirts from this era are now highly sought after by collectors and vintage enthusiasts. They are prized for their unique construction, soft feel, and the nostalgic connection to a time when clothing was made to last.
Single-stitch T-shirts were almost entirely phased out during the 90’s and 00’s as double stitching became ubiquitous. The change in stitching was partly due to the demands of mass production, as double stitching allowed for faster and more efficient garment construction.
Today, single- stitch T-shirts are now seen as iconic pieces of fashion history, representing a time when clothing was made with a greater emphasis on quality and durability.
The single-stitch T-shirt has made a comeback, particularly among boutique brands and vintage-inspired lines. These T-shirts are often marketed as premium items, appealing to those who appreciate the artisanship and authenticity of vintage clothing.
